Historical royal retreat is ideal for all classes

Deanna Delamotta sampled a traditional inn in the heart of the Forest of Bowland and surveyed spectacular Lancashire scenery – from the comfort of her own room.

The tall well-spoken gent at reception jumped up to give me an Ordnance Survey map when I asked for walking suggestions. Our original plan had been to follow a leisurely ramble recommended by our M.E.N walking correspondents John and Anne Nuttall. But this involved negotiating two sets of stepping-stones. Rain, rain and yet more rain left the stones submerged so there was no chance of crossing the River Hodder.

"No problem," said the affable blond chap – who turned out to be The Inn at Whitewell’s managing director, Chris Bowman. A former Saatchi and Saatchi advertising man, Charles is the third generation of the Bowman family to run the Inn which was a manor house in the 14th century, lived in by the keepers of the Royal Forest. The royal connection remains to this day as the Inn is part of the Duchy of Lancaster estate. During the 18th century it was transformed into a resting place for travellers en route to, or from, Lancaster.

Charles, who took over the reins from his late father Richard, a former Lancashire cricketer, whipped out a yellow highlighter pen and drew out a route when he saw my "don’t do maps" expression. The six-mile Whitewell circular is outlined in many guides to the Forest of Bowland and is said to take between three and a half and four hours o complete. "Whoever decided that must be arthritic!" laughed Charles, merrily adding that it had taken him two and a half hours "max".

I chortled in unison. Yes, these walking guides do pile on the times to reassure the less sprightly that they aren’t past it.

Four hours later, having sunk to our calves in muddy fields, squelched up the moors where the grass reached our thighs and climbed over ladder stiles into puddles surrounded by surly cows who looked as moody as I was, we were still half an hour from the finishing line. How could this be? Perhaps if we hadn’t got lost once through our poor map-reading skills and then because we followed the wrong sign through a farmyard and had to be rescued by quad-biking youngsters, we might have done it in three hours.

We were further reassured by other walkers who said they’d never experienced such difficult terrain despite having followed the same route many times before – in less inclement weather. Some decided to sit it out with a bar of Kendal mint cake and survey the scenery: a stunning symphony of green pasture, rising to a crescendo of dramatic fells, punctuated by mottled-purple moorland. We were too busy trying to finish this "easy" walk to absorb the beauty of the landscape that has yet to achieve the recognition it deserves not just outside Lancashire but within the county’s borders. It wasn’t until we’d taken off our boots and socks and sank into the squidgy sofas at the Inn that we could really drink it in.

Room 15 is on the lower ground floor in a corner that used to house the kitchen – before it slipped into the River Hodder.

In characteristic jolly fashion Charles reflected that this was an opportunity rather than a disaster as the kitchens boasted fantastic views that could be better served by transforming them into bedrooms for paying guests. Following an extensive revamp that means the new rooms won’t sink (honest!) guests can enjoy the stunning riverside location. Each window offers a different pastoral panorama, the kind of which inspired artists and composers down the centuries.

The Inn at Whitewell’s reputation stretches far and wide despite the fact that it is not easy to find – a petition in the entrance bearing more than 200 signatures imploring Lancashire County Council for signage to a testament to those who thought: "Oh yes, near Clitheroe, we’ll find it." Take a tip from me. Follow the directions on the website to the letter.

Her Maj dined in the Inn’s restaurant on a visit to East Lancashire two years ago and given that she sampled the Goosnargh chicken I decided it would be rude not to do likewise.

The chicken came with a sausage of chicken liver that I found a bit odd to look at but very tasty, and was accompanied by barley, new potatoes, mangetout and broccoli. The lamb – perfectly pink and sliced into delectable morsels – was also extremely edible. Although far from empty, the restaurant wasn’t as well patronised as the bar which was packed with diners and drinkers who clearly appreciate the grub and real ales on offer.

Fish pie comes highly recommended although it wasn’t on offer while I was there so I had fishcakes for lunch instead, with wonderful fat chips and garlic mayonnaise – the kind of comfort food that is good for the soul but not for anyone that comes within breathing distance.

Well heeled voices bounce off the wooden beams of the Inn which shows off its huntin’ shootin’ and fishin’ crenditals. There’s a guide to hunting etiquette in room 15 with a foreword from Brideshead Revised actor Jeremy Irons who is also the master of a hunt in Ireland. Then there’s the seven miles of water to fish trout, salmon and grayling.

But commoners shouldn’t be deterred because Lancashire accents are always audible. The Inn welcomes all-comers; royal, rustic or townie, just as it has done for centuries.