The Good Food Guide 2009

The Inn at Whitewell – Upper-tier Pub Food – Cooking score 3.

This handsome, rambling Bowland inn has superb views over the River Hodder towards the Trough of Bowland. It adheres to the old-fashioned values of inn-keeping, offering warmth, comfort, real ales and good food. Choose between any of the bars or more formal restaurant (there’s a terrace taking in those views too), and while the décor may be olde-worlde, the cooking takes a modern approach with a nod to the Mediterranean and reliance on first-rate produce, much of it local. Seared King Scallops, avocado puree, crispy smoked bacon, anchovy salad and a savoury dressing makes a good start, while loin of Bowland Lamb served with a cassoulet of beans and root vegetables, potato puree and slow roast tomatoes, or brochette of pork loin marinated with lemon and thyme with hotpot-style potatoes and Bramley apple compote are typical main course choices. British and Irish cheeses are an alternative to homely puddings. The wine list, a comprehensive global affair with a strong showing in France, offers a dozen halves and opens at £12.50.